From The New Yok Times
scorecard Stella McCartney Wins!
Women's Fashion
By ALISON S. COHN
March 10, 2010, 5:52 pm Another day of runway shows, another minimalism convert. On Monday, the other half of Paris’s power-woman design duo — Phoebe Philo’s former boss and fellow Chloé alumna — Stella McCartney also pronounced the virtues of restrained chic, a catechism that Scorecard knows the somber wimple-wearing novitiates at Yves Saint Laurent seemed to have more than taken to heart. Oh, Maria (er, Stefano), remember, the love of a man is holy, too!
Stella McCartney
Designer: Stella McCartney
Date: Monday, March 8,
Photos: slide show
“As the week goes on, the Céline-ification is in full swing.” (The Cut)
“Clean-cut, modernist and devoid of accessories.” (The Daily Telegraph)
“Functional luxury.” (ELLEuk.com)
“[An] underlying theme of versatility.” (Fashion Week Daily)
“Stella showed her most pared-down, simple collection in seasons.” (Grazia)
“Went to prove that the return of minimalism to the international catwalks is the story of the autumn/winter 2010 season.” (The Independent)
“With this growing confidence, Ms. McCartney showed polished daytime clothes where everything was on target.” (International Herald Tribune)
“Super clean.” (The New York Times)
“A clean, linear silhouette was the story at Stella McCartney.” (On the Runway)
“It was clean, polished and chic — three buzzwords of the season.” (Style.com)
“Not a print. Not a ruffle. Nothing extraneous at all — save the trailing fabric flying from the hems of some sporty short evening dresses and a little Chantilly lace.” (Vogue Daily)
“Sexy without shouting about it to get you noticed without noticing.” (Vogue.com UK)
“A strong collection rooted in restrained chic.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
Yves Saint Laurent
Designer: Stefano Pilati
Date and Location: Monday, March 8, Grand Palais – entrée avenue Winston Churchill
Photos: slide show
“What is it about the Pilgrim aesthetic that Pilati finds so beguiling?” (Associated Press)
“Beautiful black clothes.” (The Cut)
“The mood was mainly stark and uncompromisingly sober.” (The Daily Telegraph)
“Apparently religious iconography of nun-like habits and wimples, dog collars, pendants and hoods.” (ELLEuk.com)
“Get thee to a nunnery?” (Fashion Week Daily)
“The house of Yves Saint Laurent took a step into a new dimension.” (Fashion Wire Daily)
“Black and big and almost nun-like.” (Fashionista)
“Puritanical style.” (Grazia)
“It was freezing in the Grand Palais … so maybe it’s appropriate that capes and weatherproof sportswear define the Yves Saint Laurent woman this season.” (Heard on the Runway)
“Stefano Pilati’s ecclesiastical fantastical show for Yves Saint Laurent was mesmerizing in its vision, chic and sleek in its clothes, yet with a frisson of discomfort.” (International Herald Tribune)
“You expected Sister Mary Margaret to come swooping down the runway and rap you on the knuckles with a ruler.” (The New York Times)
“Although cloaked in an attitude of protection, the show seemed to expose the vulnerability of the designer.” (On the Runway)
“This collection was sometimes tricky to fathom.” (Style.com)
“You’ll be feeling ecclesiastical even if you’ve never stepped foot in a church.” (Vogue Daily)
“Had a darkly monastic feel — with of course the note of subversion ever present in [Pilati's] work.” (Vogue.com UK)
“There’s a line between modest and monastic, which Pilati crossed all too literally with a runaway cape motif, which when paired with habit-like hats and dowdy white shirts was a nun’s story minus Audrey Hepburn.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
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Emanuel Ungaro
Designer: Estrella Archs
Date and Location: Monday, March 8, Hôtel Westin – 3 rue de Castiglione
Photos: slide show
“The brand’s trademark color is fuchsia, but its future looked black.” (Associated Press)
“The Ungaro collection referenced some of the founder’s signatures … but was not helped by the young and thin models who mostly looked as if they were wearing their mothers’ clothes.” (The Daily Telegraph)
“A desperate attempt to make the label’s 1980s heyday relevant again.” (ELLEuk.com)
“The new Ungaro, whatever that means, needs to identify itself, and fast.” (Fashion Week Daily)
“This latest offering, courtesy of Archs alone, had more depth.” (The Independent)
“There wasn’t much that spoke to the audience.” (International Herald Tribune)
“Those looking forward to a repeat performance of a train wreck were disappointed to encounter just another fender bender.” (The New York Times)
“On the whole, the collection of draped and ruched party dresses, scattered here and there with tailored jackets in men’s-wear fabrics, was an improvement.” (Style.com)
“It’s colorful but it’s missing the lush, super luxe Ungaro quality.” (Vogue.com UK)
“As party clothes go, they were just fine and cute, but not special.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
Giambattista Valli
Designer: Giambattista Valli
Date and Location: Monday, March 8, 7 place Vendôme
Photos: slide show
“Early-’60s glamour lived again in Valli’s gorgeous coats and cocktail dresses.” (Associated Press)
“If style is grace under pressure, as Ernest Hemingway once defined it, then designer Giambattista Valli surely has it in spades.” (Fashion Wire Daily)
“Giambattista revised the more sculptural excesses of his signature style.” (Grazia)
“The Giambattista Valli look has always teetered toward the grand past of dressing up. But the show Monday was of clothes short and cute.” (International Herald Tribune)
“The best ideas often come when you are in the shower. Giambattista Valli must have thought that that also applied to when you are standing on the bathmat, considering all the fuzzy combinations of shaggy fringes and curly-haired furs.” (The New York Times)
“Valli’s fans will find a lot to like among his fall offerings, which eschewed plainness and sobriety.” (Style.com)
“These were modern, sexy ’60s starlets.” (Vogue.com UK)
“A retro tribute.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
Kenzo
Designer: Antonio Marras
Date and Location: Monday, March 8, Espace Ephémère Tuileries – Jardin des Tuileries
Photos: slide show
“Pure 1970s chic.” (Associated Press)
“Played off the contrast between the bourgeois and the bohemian lifestyles.” (The Daily Telegraph)
“An upbeat and fun collection that led the way with an alternative vision for next season.” (ELLEuk.com)
“Just when you thought it was time to say bye-bye to Boho, along comes a Kenzo show to make the most of hippie de luxe.” (International Herald Tribune)
“The design of the runway said it all: willow branches woven into a spreading canopy of trees, representing the evolution of the Kenzo ideal under its current creative director.” (Style.com)
“A hippy-chic Annie Hall who, while pretty to look at, was apparently almost entirely out of the loop of the autumn/winter 2010 season that has been emerging everywhere else.” (Vogue.com UK)
“Heritage is the new luxury, and Antonio Marras delivered a collection soaked in nostalgia for house founder Kenzo Takada’s designs from the ’70s.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
Vanessa Bruno
Designer: Vanessa Bruno
Date and Location: Monday, March 8, Palais de Chaillot – 1 place du Trocadéro
Photos: slide show
“Bruno does present a number of ideas, at least some of which provide a welcome antidote to the prevailing ’squeaky-clean college girl circa 1963.’ ” (The Cut)
“Vanessa Bruno continues her well-trodden path of producing easy luxe clothes that fit beautifully and you’ll wear over and over again.” (ELLEuk.com)
“The perfectly French wardrobe every American girl’s after.” (Fashionista)
“Dance, or more precisely, the layered and wrapped outfits that dancers wear to rehearse, provided Bruno with an organizing theme for her fall collection.” (Style.com)
“Off-duty Broadway dancer, working hard for the money, so hard for it honey.” (Vogue Daily)
“There is quite a delicious haphazardness to Vanessa Bruno’s work that … looked nicer than ever today.” (Vogue.com UK)
“[A] lovely and ultrawearable lineup.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
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